Uber condensed shopping list …
A soldering iron and solder will be required, and a little DIY savvy. But you wont regret it .. it’s not just fun … it has serious purpose to your aquarium control. Enjoy.
I have created a list on Amazon.ca (Canada) to help. These are not ideal prices at least allows you to read a little on the items. Which are source able any many different forms and models. AMAZON SHOP LIST (Canada)
1 x PCA9685 16Channel 12bit PWM
DONT FORGET YOU STILL NEED LED DRIVERS & MEANWELL LDD’s Look below this item for an explanation.
We have chosen to use this module to provide for those who would like PWM lighting. PWM is pulse width modulation, a fancy way for saying LED dimming, by providing high speed on/off operation at a rate faster than the eye can see. This unit provides the ability to control 16 PWM channels, so that’s 16 LED circuits … this might seem a lot, but not for MONSTER TANKS.
1 x DHT22 Module
The DHT sensor module can make use of PWM fans, so make sure you buy the PCA9685 PWM board.
The DHT Module has been designed to help you manage the humidity your aquarium creates both in the sump and in the room. You have a choice of activating relays to trigger a big room fan / extractor OR you have the ability to use PWM speed control fans via your PCA9685. You can even use both, for example you can use a PWM fan for your mini speed controlled DC fan, and you can use the relay option to trigger a big room fan … OR if you like you can just use the relay to trigger an LED !!!! totally up to you.
You can configure multiple DHT’s .. for different areas in the room / tanks .. AND you can add more than one entry per DHT sensor.
Retail Mean Well LDD-H series LED Driver LDD-1000H LDD-700H LDD-600H LDD-500H LDD-350H LDD-300
The key to understanding what you need here is how many LED’s your intending to drive. The numbers on these units express the constant amperage. So 1000 will be 1amp or 1000 milliamps. One of those would drive a 10W plate LED. If you wanted to control say 7 1w LEDS … you would then buy 1 350 Meanwell and wire it in series with the respective voltage. We will be creating videos for the May release of Jayfish v5 which will help explain how to build your own LED light units.
11.4″ x 8.3″ x 3.1″ Plastic Enclosure Project Case DIY Junction Box
Plastic enclosure to house your 110v or 240v power sockets. Your relays would also be placed inside this box.
10 Pcs US 3 Pins Power Socket Plug Black AC 125V 15A
These are 110v US sockets 240v based countries would obviously require what you use instead.
Docooler® Ultra-quiet Mini 4.8W DC12V Micro Brushless Water Oil Pump Submersible 240L/H Lift 3M
Mini 12v Brushless ATO Top Up Pump. I have tested these and they are really nice little units. I would order two one as a backup. You will see below that we also support ATO using gravity solenoids. It’s up to you … but the pump method is more popular.
Vktech DS18b20 Waterproof Temperature Sensors Temperature Transmitter (5pcs)
Vktech DS18b20 Waterproof Temperature Sensors, always order 1 extra and I recommend a minimum of two in operation.
GEREE 24V-380V 40A 250V SSR-40 DA Solid State Relay Module
SSR Solid State Relays, These are for heavy duty items such as Chillers & Massive pumps. The basic relays are normally fine but if your running a very big setup with powerful / heavy draw equipment (Normally found on 100 gallon tanks). I recommend you use these for ALL your relays. Normal is hard to define .. I recommend you order two of these regardless of intending not to use them. If you have a piece of equipment that draws too hard on a normal relay and burns one out .. you need to use this for that item instead.
IF YOU ARE PLANNING TO USE THE DOSE FEATURE (YOU NEED ONE OF THESE PER DOSE MOTOR) DO NOT USE STANDARD RELAYS FOR DOSING.
SainSmart 8-Channel Relay Module
One 8 way relay bank or multiple of them. The relay module I would recommend is an 8 block unit. Basically speaking each one of those blue boxes can interrupt power. Running each plug connection through these will allow you to control it via the Raspberry Pi computer. The most I have paid for this is about $8. .There are many out there that are available for the Raspberry Pi, most are sold as made for the Arduino (Another little micro-controller) ** Note my system is built for the Pi NOT the Arduino. If they say Arduino only .. or dont mention Raspberry Pi … dont worry about this they are pretty much universal. 8 way relay module I recommend buy a branded one from Sainsmart however you can obtain them in abundance on ebay and elsewhere.
Pick some of these up too (Headers) they are real handy for near connections and retro fit soldered connections. These can be found in ebay – REAL CHEAP stuff.
Raspberry Pi 3 (Pi 1 & 2 A & B’s Also Work) But ensure you install Raspbian Jessie Pixel
The most important item required is 1 x Raspberry Pi 3 / 2 with the Raspbian Jessie Operating system version on it. The Raspberry Pi uses typical micro USB power socket (Just like Android Chargers) ensure that you get a good USB power supply that provides at least 1000 maH or more. There are may suppliers out there most notably Adafruit, Element14 and Amazon. The primary advantage of the Pi3 is wireless networking …. and we SERIOUSLY advise buying it. It saves allot of hassle. You might want to make your own case or perhaps order one online. If you do stick to plastic housings or it will affect your WiFi signal.
Button (Any Push Button You Like) NON click and lock .. must be momentary push.
Buy some buttons you never know if what we might create ? and make sure you include 10k ohm and 1k ohm resistors.
Adafruit has a really cool range of buttons ( The button you want is a PUSH button – one that does not lock on or off but rather clicks once or only reacts when you while you keep it pressed in. ) https://www.adafruit.com/category/235
4.7k Ohm Resistors (You only need one but a pack will set you for life) Cheap.
1-Wire Protocol – Temperature Resistor Requirement.
These are inexpensive little jumper leads, you can expect to pay about $2 for 20-40. This is another great eBay item, but most electronics stores stock them. If your buying your pi from Adafruit look them up they have them there too, makes it easier to get as much as you can from one place. if your Pi and your powerbox is going to be far apart we recommend buy a network lead to cut up as an extension. The hardware guide will show you what we did.
Pi 7inch LCD (Official)
Not required just yet – but having it in advance would be good. We are currently developing for this screen so that you have a console at your tank. If you wish.
Gravity Solenoid Valve – Its important that you get the GRAVITY valve and NOT !!! the 3psi pressure valve. The Gravity is like a tap .. open and close. The pressure ones require pressure to work.
If you intend to TOP your tank off (Fill up with fresh water due to evaporation) using gravity feed (This would mean a water container is above your tank or higher than your sump with a hose running down to the valve) You would need 2 of these.
I recommend 2 inline to ensure that if one jams (Ive never seen that happen) the other will act as a backup. The alternative to doing this would be to use the small 12v DC pump I mentioned above … or any pump you have lying around.
Used for a pullup state with push buttons .. don’t worry if you don’t understand what this means. Diagrams will show you where these would go. 🙂
This is required for buttons. More specifically in this case we are currently developing a feed button for guest feeds at your tank. The feed button will not only record a feed but can also be connected to a relay. (This is a new feature for end of June 2017)
Dosing Pump – Peristaltic 12v or 6v (This is new and development to support them will be complete in October 2017) Note you will need to buy 1 SSR relay PER motor. DO NOT USE Normal Relays .. they must be SSR’s
For the pending ATO (Automatic Top Off) Build The following will be required.
2 x Float switches & 2 x 12v Solenoid Pumps
For the float switches we recommend any floats that can handle 1.5amps ( I know this is over kill but it ensure reliability based on the way it’s going to be wired up.) And we also recommend the type shown here. As the normal cylinder based ones can get stuck.
We use the gravity based 12v DC solenoid water valves, DO NOT USE BRASS or COPPER, The reason we use two in series is as a fail safe. So if one jammed open the second will still close. Gravity based means the only open with pressure. So your water top up container needs to be higher than the valve.
ALTERNATIVE to VALVE
You can use a normal cheap water pump instead of the solenoid valve, its’ up to you and your application requirements.
IMPORTANT: we recommend that you use an SSR relay to power the solenoid valves or the water pump. SSR’s cannot stick mechanically.